Since – as I said before – God doesn’t answer to prayers of request for something because it would make it impossible for the whole world not to believe in His existence and therefore ask for the stop of all wars and cure for i.e. the cancer, I just asked to my dear mother to start praying for Saint Zeno for whom a beautiful church was built hundreds of years ago not far from where she lives now.
Zeno of Verona (Italian: Zenone da Verona; about 300 – 371 or 380) was either an early Christian Bishop of Verona or a martyr. He is a saint in the Roman Catholic Church and in the Eastern Orthodox Church.
According to a Veronese author named Coronato, a notary of the 7th century, Zeno was a native of North Africa, from Mauretania (northern Morocco and Algeria). He taught many children of Africa about the Catholic religion and he also helped them with their school work. The children could rely on someone who could help them. Another theory is that Zeno was a follower of Athanasius, patriarch of Alexandria, who accompanied his master when the latter visited Verona in 340
The style of the 90 or so Sermones attributed to Zeno has also been considered evidence of his African origins due to its literary style, since Christian African writers of the time frequently used neologisms and wordplay. Many of the Sermones concern Old Testament exegesis and "have a definite anti-Semitic element in them".
Staying in the city, Zeno entered the monastic life, living as a monk until around 362, when he was elected successor to the See of Verona after the death of Bishop Gricinus (Cricinus, Cricino).
Zeno had "received a good classical education", and as bishop baptized many people, won converts back from Arianism, lived a life of poverty, trained priests to work in the diocese, set up a convent for women, reformed how the Agape feast was celebrated, and forbade funeral masses being accompanied by attendees' loud groans and wailing. Zeno’s other reforms included instructions concerning adult baptism (which occurred by complete immersion) and issuing medals to people newly baptized to the Catholic faith.
Zeno is the patron saint of fishermen and anglers, the city of Verona, newborn babies as well as children learning to speak and walk. Some 30 churches or chapels have been dedicated to him, including Pistoia Cathedral.
The bronze doorways of the Basilica in Verona depict, besides stories from the Bible, the miracles of Saint Zeno. These depictions were drawn from stories, including those recorded by the notary Coronato.
Zeno is most often represented with fishing-related items such as a fish, fishing rod, or as a bishop holding a fishing rod, or with a fish hanging from his crozier. "Local tradition says the bishop was fond of fishing in the nearby river Adige," writes Alban Butler, "but it is more likely that originally it was a symbol of his success in bringing people to baptism.
So who knows? Maybe this black Saint will listen to my mother’s prayers, now that the president of the USA is black too; I see some kind of hopeful connection in this, even if I’ve been sending messages to Obama to include me in any stem cell clinical trial for TBI without a response ever.
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Right beside piazza delle Erbe is my favorite square named and dedicated to my beloved poet Dante Alighieri, who wrote the Divine Comedy about what the soul goes through after death, what I find fascinating about his Comedy is that Dante said that it was the simple collection of the stories told by people on the streets at his time, the XIII sec. and it’s embraced by the Catholics and the Vatican as a reliable description of the after-death of people of all kinds.
For the history of this place, you have to start from the Scala family, the rulers of the Verona town-state bearing in mind, however, that in the square there were already the Municipal Palace and the Domus Nova. At the end of the XIII century, the square (which was then called Platea Domini vicarii), did not have today’s rectangular form; neither the palace that is now called the Palace of the Courts, nor the Palace of Government. The entire building would have been sold to the nobleman Galasso Pio da Carpi in 1408, but in 1490 it turned out to be the property of the House of Charity (in typical Italian style).
Perhaps it was during these years that the building was remodeled and the façade was transformed into the simple Renaissance style of today. On the face of the building there is a curious base relief with a seated woman who holds a flag in her hand, upon which it is written Fide et Charitate in aeternum non deficiam. The woman represents Verona resting safe in the shadow of the Serenissima Republic (Venice), protecting her.
Verona’s oldest Caffè is important, which hung out the sign “Dante” in 1863, following the erection of the monument to the poet in the square. The place was frequented by professionals, men of letters, artists and politicians, especially the elderly, who formed various “small parliaments”, discussing politics, art and above all criticizing everything, like all Italians since ever.
The Palace of the Council was not entirely completed, when it was decided to place a few statues on the arch at the top of via delle Fogge. The administration decided upon St. Zenone, protector of the city, and the task was given to this “magistro Angelo lapicida”. But things got complicated. Instead of St. Zenone, a statue of Girolamo Fracastoro was placed on the arch in 1559.
The great doctor, poet and astronomer is dressed in the Roman style and holds a sphere of he world in his hand. The sphere immediately struck the shrewd popular fantasy: Fracastoro would have dropped the sphere on the head of the first honorable man that walked under the arch. But the sphere is still there… In 1756, the statue of Scipione Maffei was placed on the arch facing via Barbaro.
1865 was the sixth centennial of the birth of Dante and Italy was about to solemnly commemorate the recurrence. As an initiative of the Academy of Agriculture and the Society of Fine Arts, to which the City Council adhered, it was decided to erect a statue of Dante in Piazza dei Signori, where the Scala Palace that had hosted the “Ghibellin fuggiasco”.
On 6th October 1863 a call for tender was emanated for the design of the statue. The only conditions were that the second quality Carrara marble be suitable for a height of three meters, supported by a pedestal and that the figure, which would turn its back to via delle Fogge, have its head turned slightly towards the left, or namely towards Scala Palace of the Courts.
It was then stated that the Poet must have been turned towards free Italy. The winner of the tender was a young, entirely unknown artist, Ugo Zannoni.
The statue was uncovered on 14 May 1865, in the early morning. It was not desired that the Austrian authorities intervene in the inaugural ceremony.
Not much later the Austrians were sent back to their home country and the rest can be read on history books that talk about the conquest of independence for Italy and WWII, so I’m not going to continue on this.
Not at all geographically far from the Arena is the piazza delle erbe, a bustling marketplace -- the palazzi-flanked Square of the Herbs -- sits on the site of the Roman Forum where chariot races once took place. The herbs, spices, coffee beans, and bolts of silks and damasks that came through Verona after landing in Venice from faraway Cathay have given way to the fresh and aromatic produce of one of Italy's wealthiest agricultural regions -- offset by the presence of T-shirt and french-fries vendors, as the piazza has become something of a tourist trap. But the perfume of fennel and vegetables fresh from the earth still assaults your senses in the early morning, mixing with the cacophony of vendors touting plump tomatoes, dozens of different variations of salad greens, and fruits that can't possibly taste as good as they look, but do. Add to this the canary lady, the farmer's son who has brought in a half a dozen puppies to unload, and the furtive pickpocket who can spot a tourist at 50 paces -- and you have one of Italy's loveliest little outdoor markets. Take a rest on one of the steps leading up to the small 14th-century fountain in the piazza's center and a Roman statue dubbed The Virgin of Verona.
Located between the Via Mazzini and the Corso Porta Borsari, the Piazza delle Erbe stands where the ancient Roman forum was once located. Once a place where chariot races were held, it is now the site for the local market. Piazza delle Erbe is literally translated as the Square of Herbs. As the name implies, you can find all sorts of herbs in the marketplace. Perhaps the first thing that will strike you as you walk into the square is the overpowering aroma of different herbs and spices. Nowadays, herbs are not the only things of value you can buy in the market. Anything from clothes, refreshments, and souvenir items are sold in the numerous stalls scattered around the market square. My own mother still today goes there to buy the “hearts of artichokes” that are a normal artichoke without the hard leaves all around.
There has been an old lady in this square selling such hearts since I was very young, she does it with a sharp knife without gloves to protect her hands that are harder than steel and full of small healing cuts all over.
Numerous building can be found in the square, as well. All of them are beautiful and full of historical significance. Towering high above the square is the Tower Lamberti. At 83 meters high, it is given the distinction of being the tallest tower in Verona. At the top of the tower is an octagon shaped structure which holds the Rengo and Marangona bells. Both of these bells date back from 1464.
As the center of administration, the square also holds the municipal hall, known as the Palazzo Commune. It was built in the middle ages but was given a new façade in the 19th century. The Palazzo Commune now sports a neoclassical frontage.
In 1301, Alberto I della Scala built the Domus Mercatorum. Originally a Romanesque structure, it was restored and renovated in the 19th century. Now it is home to the Chamber of Commerce.
You can also see the Torre Gardello, which was built in 1370 but was not finished till 1626. Construction of this tower is attributed to Cansignorio Sella. Not far from the Torre Gardello is the Cassa Mazzanati. Art lovers will be sure to appreciate the Cavalli frescoes dating back to the 16th century. Other interesting structures are the Domus Nova, and the tabernacle, which was built in the 15th century.
Not everything in the square is Romanesque. There is the Palazzo Maffei, which is actually a Baroque structure. At the top of the building are five beautiful sculptures of the old gods — Jupiter, Venus, Apollo, Hercules, and Minerva. Today, you can find assistance within the building through the tourism office.
The highlight of this square is the Madonna Verona Fountain, which was created by Cansignorio. This 14th century Roman statue is also known as The Virgin of Verona. No visitor should pass out the chance of seeing this fountain, which is located in the middle of the square. Right on its side there’s my most favorite square named after my most beloved poet, Dante Alighieri.
The Verona – my mother town - Arena is one of the best-preserved ancient Roman structures and well worth a visit during a trip to the Veneto. The arena is a Roman Amphitheatre that is famous not only for its incredible preservation, but also for the massive opera performances that are produced here every year. Known in Italian as Arena di Verona, this ancient amphitheatre was built in AD 30 and at the time could hold 30,000 spectators. Today, this is one of the top attractions in Verona, and in some cases, the main reason why travelers venture from other, better-known destinations in Italy. Many opera fans aspire to see their favorite production at the Verona Italy amphitheatre, known worldwide for its acoustics and romantic setting.
The essential thing about the Arena is that it is outdoor opera that is not miked. This is the bane of outdoor opera. An opera singer singing thru a body mike has to moderate his or her voice to take full advantage of the sound system. Or their mike has to be turned down so low that the folks in the back can’t hear. But the acoustics of the Arena are so superb that no miking is used at all. There are dead spots on the stage (and these vary depending on where you sit). In fact, I would put listening to opera at the Arena on a par with the Met in NY (not quite as precise but louder in the cheap seats than the Met) and better than the old Kennedy Center Opera House acoustically.
If you plan on visiting the Verona Arena to catch an opera performance, than you have some advance research to do. First of all, the opera season in Verona takes place every summer, from approximately mid-June through the beginning of September. Different productions are part of the opera festival every year, so if you have your heart set on a certain opera, just because it isn’t on this year’s line up doesn’t mean you won’t see it there in the future. For instance, the 2011 summer season was offering six core productions, with a total of 49 performances spread throughout the summer.
2013 marks the 91st Opera Festival at Arena di Verona and has become one of the most highly anticipated seasons of the year for opera fans. Even those who have never been to an opera before can’t help but be fascinated by the history of the Verona Italy amphitheatre and the stunning surroundings. To reach Verona, it is possible to arrive by car, bus, or train. Public transportation has excellent connections to Lake Garda, Venice, Milan, and beyond. If you’re planning on attending the opera performances, it is essential to reserve your tickets far in advance. Some of the most beloved operas take the stage in Verona, including La Traviata, Aida, The Barber of Seville, and La Boheme.
The acoustics of the Verona Italy amphitheatre have been savored since productions returned to the stage in the 1850s. Opera performances began in 1913, and even Puccini himself watched an opera within this ancient walls. The open-air amphitheatre offers two choices for seating: cheaper seats on the stone steps or more expensive seats on the floor with padded chairs. Each performance welcomes 15,000 people to the candlelit Verona Arena, and each season over 500,000 people enjoy the magic offered by the acoustics of this Roman amphitheatre. Plan a trip to Verona in the summer, and you could be one of them.
Along with the arena, another reason Verona is famous for lovers of the arts is its being the setting of Romeo and Juliet. During a trip to Verona it is possible to see attractions such as Juliet’s House with its famous balcony. The Verona Arena isn’t the only historically significant attraction in town. Visitors travel to also see the Verona Duomo, Juliet’s Tomb, local museums, and Romeo’s house. Verona is a city that is known for romance, so if you’re planning a romantic getaway, spending a night at the Arena di Verona and checking into one of the local luxury hotels will be a trip you won’t soon forget.
The Arena is part of Piazza Bra that is framed by antique Roman “doors”, the city Hall and several other historical buildings, plus from that Piazza (square) it’s easy to walk down “Via Mazzini” that’s the commercial road where no cars are allowed and you can only walk looking at the most prestigious labels in fashion and arts in their "boutiques" (retail stores).
I could write an entire book of my memories of things I used to do with friends and those who still today have stores in that “via”, that I’m going to force myself to stop writing now.
Verona isn’t the town in northern Italy where I was born (it was Brescia), but I consider it like my mother town, because after moving around in various towns in the regions of Lombardia and Emilia Romagna I landed with my family in the Veneto region, in the town of Verona, that’s where my parents and sister are still living.
Castelvecchio ("old castle"), a fortress built by Cangrande II ("big dog") of the Della Scala family in 1354–1356. While the castle itself has very little ornamental decoration it is an important structure and also offers the opportunity to tour some beautiful art as today it is home to the Castelvecchio Museum. The museum can be accessed through the left door located on Via Cavour
The castle is powerful and compact in its size with very little decoration - one square compound built in red bricks, one of the most prominent examples of Gothic architecture of the age, with imposing M-shaped merlons running along the castle and bridge walls. It has seven towers, a superelevated keep (maschio) with four main buildings inside. The castle is surrounded by a ditch, now dry, which was once filled with waters from the nearby Adige river.
The castle stands on the probable location of a Roman fortress outside the Roman city. Lord Cangrande II della Scala had it built along with its bridge across the Adige river as a deterrent to his powerful neighbors such as Venice, the Gonzaga of Florence and the Sforza of Milan families. Construction was carried out between 1354 and 1376 (Cangrande died in 1359). The fortified bridge was intended to allow the seigniors to escape safely northwards to the Tyrol in the event of a rebellion or a coup d'état (the Scaligeri were allies of the Holy Roman Empire) and when they eventually lost their hold on Verona, its surviving members left Italy to establish a German branch of the family.
From 1404 Verona became part of the Venetian Republic and Castelvecchio became a munitions depot and subsequently was the home of the Venetian Military Academy. Later, during the Venetian domination, slits were added to defend it with cannons. The castle was damaged by French troops during the Napoleonic Wars (1796-7), in retaliation to the “Pasque Veronesi”, when the local population staged a violent anti-French revolt. Napoleon had chosen to stay in Castelvecchio on his trips to Verona, but his widespread and arbitrary requisitions of citizens' and churches' property, the massive draft of male workers into the French army prompted the resistance that eventually drove out the invaders.
Under the Austrians, Castelvecchio was turned into barracks. In 1923 the castle was restored, as well as in 1963-1965. In 1958, the museum underwent a total reorganization in effort to restore the value of both the historical and the artistic additions. The restoration favored authenticity, thus eliminating the false contexts created in the 1920s renovation. The architect was the renowned Carlo Scarpa, he sought to tell the story of Castelvecchio for what it was – pastiche mixed with history. He preformed select demolitions and peeled back roofs to reveal layers of history in dialogue. He used modern materials in expressive ways to mediate between parts, drawing attention to historical fact and alerting visitors to the fakery of the '20s renovation. By pulling doors and windows back from the recreated Gothic facade, he exposes the decoration like a theater stage set. He heightens this awareness by moving the entry from the formal center to the end. Even the museum art objects are decontextualized - placed on floating planes to signify their departure from other destroyed buildings. Scarpa made his own commentaries on fascism by removing building portions to reveal the 12th century wall of the city (a time when the inhabitants of Verona had greater freedoms).
Some of my favorite memories of this castle is its bridge over the river, I remember kissing girls for the first time while talking about the history of what we were walking on. I remember actually making up stories of sword fights among soldiers centuries earlier.
I’m going to tell you something about the bridge in Venice that I used to see pretty much each weekend when visiting my grandparents on my mother’s side.
The bridge became the path by which the prisoners were transported from the prison to the inquisitor's office. Its name stems from the popular belief of sadness and the sighs of condemned prisoners as they were led through it to the executioner.
In reality, the days of inquisitions and torture were over by the time the bridge was built and only small time crooks were kept in the prison cells.
The prison building is older than the Doge's palace and was at one time used during the inquisition by the Church during the Middle Ages (when people were suspected of being witches or non-believers and tortured).
Indeed, the Bridge of Sighs is a beautiful sight, stretching high above the canal. It is generally known as one of the finest examples of bridge architecture in the world according to Italian Renaissance in style, the 11m (36ft) wide bridge is made of white limestone, construction started in 1600 and it took about 2 years to finish it.
It has been unveiled after a three-year, 2.8 million Euro restoration project which had seen it controversially covered with advertising hoardings while the work took place.
I remember seeing it while walking on another bridge on the same canal while walking to the Calle del Pestrin where my grandparents lived for many years and their apartment was above a fish restaurant cooking delicious food at any time of the day.
