Not at all geographically far from the Arena is the piazza delle erbe, a bustling marketplace -- the palazzi-flanked Square of the Herbs -- sits on the site of the Roman Forum where chariot races once took place. The herbs, spices, coffee beans, and bolts of silks and damasks that came through Verona after landing in Venice from faraway Cathay have given way to the fresh and aromatic produce of one of Italy's wealthiest agricultural regions -- offset by the presence of T-shirt and french-fries vendors, as the piazza has become something of a tourist trap. But the perfume of fennel and vegetables fresh from the earth still assaults your senses in the early morning, mixing with the cacophony of vendors touting plump tomatoes, dozens of different variations of salad greens, and fruits that can't possibly taste as good as they look, but do. Add to this the canary lady, the farmer's son who has brought in a half a dozen puppies to unload, and the furtive pickpocket who can spot a tourist at 50 paces -- and you have one of Italy's loveliest little outdoor markets. Take a rest on one of the steps leading up to the small 14th-century fountain in the piazza's center and a Roman statue dubbed The Virgin of Verona.Located between the Via Mazzini and the Corso Porta Borsari, the Piazza delle Erbe stands where the ancient Roman forum was once located. Once a place where chariot races were held, it is now the site for the local market. Piazza delle Erbe is literally translated as the Square of Herbs. As the name implies, you can find all sorts of herbs in the marketplace. Perhaps the first thing that will strike you as you walk into the square is the overpowering aroma of different herbs and spices. Nowadays, herbs are not the only things of value you can buy in the market. Anything from clothes, refreshments, and souvenir items are sold in the numerous stalls scattered around the market square. My own mother still today goes there to buy the “hearts of artichokes” that are a normal artichoke without the hard leaves all around.
There has been an old lady in this square selling such hearts since I was very young, she does it with a sharp knife without gloves to protect her hands that are harder than steel and full of small healing cuts all over.
Numerous building can be found in the square, as well. All of them are beautiful and full of historical significance. Towering high above the square is the Tower Lamberti. At 83 meters high, it is given the distinction of being the tallest tower in Verona. At the top of the tower is an octagon shaped structure which holds the Rengo and Marangona bells. Both of these bells date back from 1464.
As the center of administration, the square also holds the municipal hall, known as the Palazzo Commune. It was built in the middle ages but was given a new façade in the 19th century. The Palazzo Commune now sports a neoclassical frontage.
In 1301, Alberto I della Scala built the Domus Mercatorum. Originally a Romanesque structure, it was restored and renovated in the 19th century. Now it is home to the Chamber of Commerce.
You can also see the Torre Gardello, which was built in 1370 but was not finished till 1626. Construction of this tower is attributed to Cansignorio Sella. Not far from the Torre Gardello is the Cassa Mazzanati. Art lovers will be sure to appreciate the Cavalli frescoes dating back to the 16th century. Other interesting structures are the Domus Nova, and the tabernacle, which was built in the 15th century.
Not everything in the square is Romanesque. There is the Palazzo Maffei, which is actually a Baroque structure. At the top of the building are five beautiful sculptures of the old gods — Jupiter, Venus, Apollo, Hercules, and Minerva. Today, you can find assistance within the building through the tourism office.
The highlight of this square is the Madonna Verona Fountain, which was created by Cansignorio. This 14th century Roman statue is also known as The Virgin of Verona. No visitor should pass out the chance of seeing this fountain, which is located in the middle of the square. Right on its side there’s my most favorite square named after my most beloved poet, Dante Alighieri.
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